One of the key aspects of textured haircare is understanding and preventing the various types of damages it can endure. In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore mechanical, chemical, and environmental damage, how to recognize the signs of each damage, and effective strategies for protection.
The 3 Main Types of Damage on Textured Hair:
1- Mechanical Damage:
Mechanical damage occurs due to physical actions that stress the hair shaft. Brushing, combing, tight hairstyles, and friction from clothing can lead to breakage, split ends, and overall weakening of the hair.
Often underestimated, mechanical damage is a significant contributor to hair weakening and breakage in textured hair. This type of damage occurs due to physical manual actions that stress the hair shaft, leading to structural alterations and diminished hair strength over time. What are these physical actions, you may ask?
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Brushing and Combing:
When brushing or combing your curly or coily hair, especially when wet, excessive force can cause the hair fibers to stretch beyond their elastic limit. This overstretching leads to the disruption of the hydrogen bonds that hold the hair's protein structure together. As a result, the hair becomes more prone to breakage and split ends.
- Tight Hairstyles:
Tight hairstyles such as tight ponytails, braids, or buns exert constant tension on the hair follicles. This tension can lead to a condition known as traction alopecia, characterized by gradual hair loss due to the repeated pulling force on the hair roots. Additionally, tight hairstyles can compress the hair shaft, leading to decreased blood circulation to the scalp and nutrient deprivation for the hair follicles.
- Friction from Clothing:
Friction between textured hair and clothing, particularly rough or abrasive fabrics, can cause mechanical damage over time. Constant rubbing can weaken the hair cuticle, leading to increased porosity and moisture loss. Additionally, friction can create frictional forces that weaken the hair shaft, making it more susceptible to breakage and split ends.
Scientifically, mechanical damage weakens the hair by disrupting its structural integrity at the molecular level. The hair shaft is composed of overlapping layers of cuticle cells, which serve as a protective barrier for the inner cortex. Mechanical stressors such as brushing, combing, and tight hairstyles can cause the cuticle scales to lift and become damaged, exposing the cortex to environmental factors and further damage.
Repeated mechanical stress can lead to fatigue failure in the hair fibers, where the fibers weaken and ultimately break under repetitive loading. This weakening occurs due to the accumulation of micro-damage within the hair structure, compromising its tensile strength and flexibility.
2- Chemical Damage
Chemical damage, on the other hand, results from the use of harsh chemicals in treatments like relaxers, perms, or excessive heat styling. These chemicals can disrupt the hair's natural structure, causing dryness, breakage, and loss of elasticity. The 3 main causes of chemical damages are:
- Relaxers and Perms:
Relaxers and perms work by altering the protein bonds within the hair shaft to achieve a desired change in texture. Relaxers, typically containing alkaline chemicals like sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide, break down the disulphide bonds in the hair's protein structure, allowing the hair to be straightened. Perms, on the other hand, utilize reducing agents like thioglycolic acid to break and reform the disulfide bonds, creating curls or waves.
However, these chemical processes can be highly damaging to textured hair. The disruption of disulfide bonds weakens the structural integrity of the hair, making it more susceptible to breakage and damage. Additionally, the alkaline pH of relaxers can cause swelling of the hair shaft, leading to cuticle damage and increased porosity. Over time, repeated exposure to relaxers and perms can result in cumulative damage, leaving the hair dry, brittle, and prone to breakage.
Heat Styling:
Heat styling, including the use of flat irons, curling wands, and blow dryers, can also cause chemical damage to textured hair. High temperatures can break down the hydrogen bonds that hold the hair's protein structure together, leading to structural deformation and weakening of the hair fibers. Additionally, prolonged heat exposure can strip the hair of its natural moisture, resulting in dryness, brittleness, and increased susceptibility to breakage.
The Scientific Impact:
At a molecular level, chemical damage disrupts the intricate structure of the hair shaft, compromising its strength, elasticity, and overall health. Disulfide bonds play a crucial role in maintaining the three-dimensional structure of the hair's protein matrix, providing strength and resilience to the hair fibers. When these bonds are broken or rearranged during chemical processes, the hair's structural integrity is compromised, leading to weakened and damaged strands.
Furthermore, the alkaline pH of many chemical treatments can disrupt the acidic pH balance of the hair, causing the cuticle scales to lift and become damaged. This increased porosity allows moisture to escape from the hair shaft, leading to dryness, frizz, and breakage. Additionally, the use of excessive heat styling further exacerbates chemical damage by subjecting the hair to high temperatures, which can cause protein denaturation and structural deformation.
3- Environmental Damage:
Environmental factors such as UV radiation, pollution, extreme weather conditions, and hard water can also damage textured hair.
Among these factors, UV radiation from the sun stands out as the biggest contributor to damage. UV radiation, consisting of UVA and UVB rays, can penetrate the hair shaft, leading to a multitude of adverse effects including dryness, brittleness, and color fading.
UVB radiation, in particular, has the ability to penetrate the outer layers of the hair shaft, reaching the inner cortex where the hair's protein structure resides. Exposure to UVB radiation can induce structural changes in the protein matrix, causing degradation of the hair's keratin proteins. This degradation weakens the hair shaft, making it more susceptible to breakage, split ends, and overall damage.
Sun-damaged hair gets lighter in color due to UVB rays deeply penetrating hair shafts
The Scientific Impact:
At a molecular level, UV radiation-induced damage affects the structural integrity of the hair shaft, compromising its strength and elasticity. UVB radiation can break down the disulphide bonds that hold the hair's protein structure together, leading to structural deformation and weakening of the hair fibers. Additionally, UV radiation can induce oxidative stress in the hair, causing damage to the cellular components and accelerating the aging process ( yes, that means premature grey hair…)
UV radiation can also disrupt the lipid layer that surrounds the hair shaft, known as the cuticle layer. The cuticle layer acts as a protective barrier, helping to retain moisture and maintain the integrity of the hair shaft. When this layer is compromised by UV radiation, moisture loss occurs, leading to dryness, roughness, and increased porosity in the hair. As a result, textured hair may appear dull, frizzy, and prone to tangling and breakage.
Recognizing the Damages:
Now that we dived deep into the 3 types of main damages and science behind it, here is a quick list you can use to recognize the different symptoms of mechanical, chemical and environmental damage directly on your coils, curls & textured hair:
Mechanical Damage Symptoms:
- Split ends
- Hair breakage, especially along the hairline or ends
- Tangling and knots
- Uneven texture or roughness
Chemical Damage Symptoms:
- Dry and brittle hair
- Excessive frizz
- Hair thinning or loss
- Scalp irritation or burns
Environmental Damage Symptoms:
- Faded hair color
- Dryness and dullness
- Increased hair porosity
- Brittle and fragile strands
- Early appearance of grey hair
Protection and Prevention from Mechanical, Chemical and Environmental Damage:
It's natural to encounter challenges and concerns along the way when it comes to learning about the intricacy of textured hair. But don't worry! Each damage we talked about earlier can be prevented! Let’s explore practical and proactive measures to protect and strengthen your coily, curly, or locs against mechanical, chemical, and environmental damage:
Mechanical damage can be minimized with mindful haircare practices:
- Gentle Detangling:
Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers to detangle wet hair gently, starting from the ends and working your way up to the roots. This reduces the risk of breakage and minimizes stress on the hair shaft.
- Avoid Tight Hairstyles:
Opt for protective styles like loose braids or twists that distribute tension evenly across the hair. Avoid tight hairstyles that can pull on the hair follicles and lead to traction alopecia.
- Invest in Silk or Satin Pillowcases: Swap your cotton pillowcase for a smooth silk or satin one to minimize friction and prevent hair breakage while you sleep. These materials also help retain moisture, keeping your hair hydrated and healthy.
Protect your hair from chemical damage with these proactive measures:
- Limit Chemical Treatments:
Whenever possible, opt for natural styling methods and limit the use of chemical treatments like relaxers or perms. Embrace your hair's natural texture and explore protective natural hairstyles that minimize the need for harsh chemicals.
- Deep Condition Regularly:
Incorporate deep conditioning treatments into your haircare routine to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair from within. Look for nourishing ingredients like jojoba, coconut and keratin to restore vitality and resilience to your hair. The SRG Serum from HumanKin contains a well-balanced formula to nourish hair follicles while sealing moisture at the top.
- Use Heat Protectant Products:
Prior to using heat styling tools, apply a heat protectant product to shield your hair from thermal damage. These products create a barrier between your hair and the heat, reducing the risk of protein degradation and moisture loss.
Safeguard your hair against environmental stressors with these practical strategies:
- Wear Protective Headgear:
When spending time outdoors, protect your hair from direct sunlight by wearing cute hats, scarves, or headwraps. Choose styles that provide ample coverage to shield your hair and scalp from UV radiation.
- Choose Products with UV Filters:
Incorporate hair products containing UV filters into your routine to provide added protection against sun damage. These products form a barrier on the hair's surface, helping to block harmful UV rays and prevent structural damage. The HumanKin SRG Serum contains natural ingredients with UV filters supporting protection from the sun.
- Minimize Exposure to Hard Water:
Rinse your hair with filtered or bottled water to minimize exposure to hard water minerals, which can cause dryness and buildup. If hard water is unavoidable, consider using a clarifying shampoo to remove mineral deposits and restore hair health.
By incorporating these protective measures into your haircare routine, you can effectively shield your coils, curls and locs from the damaging effects of mechanical, chemical, and environmental factors. Remember that caring for textured hair is a journey of reconnection. With proper care and attention, you can cherish the strength and resilience it embodies, at all times, and wherever you are.
Sources:
Ji, Jae & Park, Tae-sik & Lee, Hae-Jin & Kim, Yoon-Duk & Pi, Long-Quan & Jin, Xin-Hai & Lee, Won-Soo. (2013). The Ethnic Differences of the Damage of Hair and Integral Hair Lipid after Ultra Violet Radiation. Annals of dermatology. 25. 54-60. 10.5021/ad.2013.25.1.54.
